Some users believe that investing in LED lighting is an absolutely unnecessary luxury, which still does not carry any practical value. And other users, on the contrary, cannot live without an LED “disco” in the system unit of a home PC. For them, we have selected some of the best LED strip kits that will allow you to organize a “party” in a computer case.
Lighting up the inside of a PC is nothing new and has never been seen before. Light tubes, LED coolers have been used to decorate cases for decades. And now even motherboards are equipped with special controllers for connecting additional LED strips. You no longer need to play Kulibin if you want to add a "light" to your body.
At a price of 1200 rubles, it is one of the most affordable multi-color backlight kits. It includes two LED strips 30 cm long and with 18 diodes each. This decision more suitable for use in Midi-Tower cases, which allow one tape at the top and one tape at the bottom inside the case. The tapes are attached to magnets, which is very convenient, and the plug is connected to the corresponding connector on the motherboard.
To control the backlight, a wireless remote control is used, which allows you to control the backlight. Note that only the entire tape can be illuminated, and not each LED individually. Thus, each LED on the tape will glow the same color at the same time. The remote control allows you to control the brightness and set the speed of changing shades on the LED strip, creating the effect of "breathing", for example. You can select 15 colors for static lighting or RGB lighting mode.
Price: about 1200 rubles
Unlike the previous set, the kit has ten LEDs on each strip, and each of them can glow in an individual color. In total, you will receive 40 LEDs, to which you can buy 4 more tapes with the same 40 diodes. In addition, the kit comes with a huge number of different cables for connecting both the tapes themselves and the fans (they are also included in the kit).
The backlight on the controller itself, which is made in the form of a small box, is not adjustable. If you don't like it, you can just turn it off. The NZXT Hue + controller is dual-channel, which allows you to supplement the lighting system with 4 more tapes (4 for each channel). In addition, this allows you to run two different lighting effects on each of the channels.
All management takes place through proprietary software, which already has eight preset operating modes, but does not prevent you from creating your own. For example, smart lighting modes allow NZXT Hue+ to automatically change colors based on CPU or GPU temperature. The audio mode activates an equalizer-style glow: the backlight will respond to any sound coming out of the PC.
Installing the kit is quite simple. The controller is screwed in place of the 2.5-inch drive in the HDD cage. From him to motherboard connects a four-pin plug for power and a data cable from the motherboard to the controller.
Price: about 5000 rubles
There are many pixel-addressed LED strips on the market today, but this is the most convenient and efficient solution when it comes to lighting a gaming PC case. This huge 500cm strip LED spool holds 300 LEDs, allowing you to cut out LED strips to fit your case. But, in addition to the LED coil itself, you will have to separately purchase a power supply and a controller.
On sale you can find ready-made controllers with hundreds of programmed types of glow, and this will become the most simple option for purchase. More advanced users can use Arduino or Raspberry Pi boards to program their own lighting effects. In our case, we decided to confine ourselves to a ready-made solution with remote control. We did not cut the tape, but simply laid it along the inside of the PC case.
Those who decide to cut out individual LED strips will have to carry out further independent soldering to connect the strips. We recommend using 3-pin JST connectors so you can easily detach the strips without having to cut and re-solder.
Price: about 1600 rubles
In this article, we'll take a look at backlighting. system block computer, as one of the most common types of modding.
In the first part of our article, we will look at installing the backlight in various parts of the system unit. In the second part, we will consider the options for connecting the backlight.
1. External illumination.
This type of illumination allows you to see all the main external components of the computer in the evening.
1.1. Illumination of the front of the system unit with LEDs
Diodes used in this paragraph
To begin with, we solder the LEDs to the extreme ends in series, and also solder 2 to them 2 additional wires of 30 cm each.
Select the location of the LEDs and mark it with dots.
In our case, this is the place, next to the DVDRom, where all the inputs are located. Therefore, I had to remove the DVDRom, as well as the protective shell.
.jpg)
We drill holes. We insert a chain of LEDs into these holes
1.2.External illumination of the lower part of the system unit.
This type of lighting provides for the presence of legs on your system unit, so it is suitable for experienced modders.
For this, it is best to use an LED strip.
The tape is easily cut with ordinary scissors into segments that are multiples of 5 cm. The segments are easily interconnected by wires. In this article, we will cut the tape into several pieces for clarity, but you can use 4 segments around the perimeter of the system unit.
We fasten our structure to the case using a self-adhesive layer of tape and connect
The tape from this section was used. complete range with all kinds of colors.
2. Illumination of the inside of the system unit
It is carried out in several ways.
2. 1. With LEDs().
Sequentially solder the LEDs. Solder the long leg (+) of the first LED to the short leg (-) of the other LED.
Solder the wires to the remaining two free legs.
We place the LEDs in the system unit. It is best to place them on the bottom and back wall.
2. Using pieces of LED strips.
With LED clusters, you don't have to solder each diode separately.
LED clusters are connected to each other with two wires 5 cm long, so that they can be placed both close to each other and at some distance. They are inserted into the holder and placed around the perimeter of the inside of the system unit using double-sided tape.
Clusters must be placed so that they do not interfere with the installation of expansion cards, drives and other mods. If the wires between the clusters are not enough, you can extend them yourself.
.jpg)
After installing the clusters in their places, it remains only to connect the power.
Clusters are quite expensive and in most cases it makes no sense to use them. You can take it, cut it into pieces of 5 cm. As a result, you get the same thing, only for a smaller amount.
3. Illumination with LED strip.
The principle of installation is similar to the installation of LED clusters, but significantly. The tape has 2 terminals on each side for connecting wires, and is also equipped with a self-adhesive surface, thanks to which you can install the backlight without the use of additional devices. Before fixing the tape, it is better to degrease the surface. 
4. Illumination of the cooler
This is the only type of lighting where we will take wires powered from the cooler itself as a power source in order to do without unnecessary wiring.
To begin with, we take 2 LEDs and solder them according to the standard scheme.
We glue the LEDs on the inside of the cooler. We take food directly near the cooler.
Now it is enough to connect the cooler and the LEDs will work simultaneously with it.
Lighting connection.
1. To 4-pin molex connector
The 4-pin molex is the most common power connector in a computer. This connector contains four pins: +12 V (most often yellow wire), +5 V (red wire), as well as two ground pins (black). When connecting the backlight to a 4-pin molex, you can choose where exactly to connect the LEDs, to 12 or 5 volts. 
In our case, you need to connect to a 12 volt source.
Before connecting, you must first check with a multimeter the correspondence of the selected contacts, and determine the polarity. After that, you need to solder a 120 ohm resistor to the positive contact, from which, in turn, we remove another wire and connect it to the “plus” of our backlight. "Minus" is soldered to the "ground" contact of the molex connector. After that, we carefully isolate the wires and close them with heat shrink tubing.
For example, let's connect a single LED.
2. To 3-pin connector
The 3-pin connector is a standard connector for connecting fans in a computer, and such connectors are most often superfluous. Therefore, it is reasonable to use them to connect the backlight. The 3-pin connector has 3 pins: +12V, ground, and a third pin that is used by the fan speed sensor.
The connection principle is identical to the connection to the 4-pin connector. We also use a 12 volt pin and a ground pin. However, it is important to remember that 3-pin connectors are designed for connecting fans and. therefore, cannot withstand the load of a 4-pin connector. But for connecting LED backlight, it is still suitable. Also, here we need a resistor with a resistance of 220 ohms. Otherwise, there are no differences. We carry out the same operations as in the first case.
3. To the USB connector.
USB is a data connector and is usually used for this purpose, however, in addition to data, the USB connector also transmits voltage and can be used for power different devices. The USB connector has four pins: two of them are responsible for data transfer and two more are responsible for voltage transfer. IN USB connector there is a voltage source of 5 V with a current strength of up to 500 mA. There are 2 USB type connectors: 4 x 12 mm and 7 x 8 mm.
The difference between them is only in form. To connect the backlight, there is no difference between them. In our example, the first version of the USB connector is used.
This type of connector requires an 82 ohm resistor. As in the first two cases, we determine the polarity and solder the resistor to the "plus". "Minus" is also attached to the "ground" contact. Close all connections with heat shrink tubing.
.jpg)
Can be connected to a computer.
There is also an elegant solution - using flexible neon! In this case, a neon cord of different colors is pulled along the cables and connected to the inverter.
Have problems with desktop computer there may be various reasons. By following our tips, you can quickly fix any problem.
PC failure can manifest itself in different ways. For example, after pressing the power button, the machine does not show signs of "life". Or the computer turns on, but individual components are not functioning. The first step is to figure out what works and what doesn't. Are the motherboard LEDs on? Are the fans spinning? Is the monitor receiving an image signal? Are BIOS messages displayed? Based on these observations, most problems can be divided into six categories (see below). For each category, we provide step-by-step instructions that will help you eliminate the possibility of simple problems so that you can then proceed to more complex diagnostics. If at any stage you are not successful, move on to the next until you solve the problem. Even if you stop at some step, the results of your testing will later become a good help for the service center employees.
If the computer does not respond in any way to pressing the power button, first of all, you should check the power or the button itself. We will help you localize the problem.
1.1. VISUAL INSPECTION. First of all, check if the power cable is connected well and if the network filter. It is possible that the power supply button on the back of the computer is in the "Off" position.
1.2. HOUSING CONNECTORS. Open the PC case and check that the connectors are connected securely and that the cable is not damaged in the area between the switches and the LEDs of the case and motherboard- perhaps some connector has moved away from the plug. If one or more cables are disconnected, open the motherboard manual and check if the cables are properly connected to the plugs.
1.3. POWER BUTTON. If the chassis connectors are connected correctly or if reconnecting them does not work, disconnect all connectors from the motherboard. Then close the two pins labeled "Power Switch" with a paperclip. If the computer turns on, two options are possible. The first is a faulty power button on the case. In this case, you need to connect both connectors labeled "Reset Switch" to the pins labeled "Power Switch" on the motherboard. From now on, the PC will be turned on using the reset button, and the power button will no longer perform its function. Another reason for such a malfunction may be a short circuit in the reset button: in this case, the usual button will not work, and starting the PC will only be possible by closing two contacts on the motherboard. Confirmation of this assumption will be the possibility of starting a PC with the reset button disabled. In this case, leave the power button connected and disconnect the reset button. After all these steps, your PC will most likely turn on again without any problems. If, even when using an office paper clip, the computer refuses to “start”, then you should check the power system.
1.4. POWER THE MOTHERBOARD. Check that all power supply connectors are properly connected to the motherboard. It's about not only a wide 24-pin ATX connector, but also an additional four-pin P4 connector for powering the processor.
1.5. POWER UNIT. Next, you need to exclude the possibility of failure of the power supply. To do this, connect a working PSU to the PC - for example, from a second computer. Connect the 24-pin ATX connector and the 4- or 8-pin P4 connector of a working computer to the motherboard of the failed PC and try to start it. If after that it turns on, then the whole thing is in the power supply, which will need to be replaced.
1.6. MOTHERBOARD. If all the above measures did not help, then most likely the motherboard failed, which is best replaced, since repairs not under warranty, as a rule, do not pay off. One way or another, replacing the motherboard means a complete disassembly and reassembly of your PC. But it is recommended to proceed with this procedure only when other possible malfunctions are excluded.
After power on, the screen remains black, although the PSU, CPU, and video card fans are running and the LEDs on the system board are lit.
2.1. MONITOR CHECK. First of all, you need to eliminate a banal malfunction by answering the question: does the monitor turn on? If not, there may be a power problem: the cable is unplugged from the display or from the outlet, or the display has a switch that is set to "off". If the monitor turns on, open the OSD menu and check if the correct signal source (VGA/D-Sub, DVI, HDMI) is selected.
2.2. SOUND AND LIGHT SIGNALS. If the monitor is not getting an image signal, the motherboard will often let you know by beeping or flashing to help you figure out what the problem is. Consult your motherboard manual to determine what the signals mean. One of the typical defects that are reported in this way can be faulty or incorrectly installed RAM modules, which the motherboard, depending on the model, warns with a beep or lit LED lamps.
2.3. RESET BUTTON. Short circuit in the reset button can also be the cause of these symptoms. Carry out the check (point 1.3).
2.4. BIOS. Sometimes cause similar problems startup may be wrong BIOS settings. To reset the BIOS, locate the Clear CMOS jumper on the motherboard. We are talking about three contacts, two of which are connected by a jumper. Remember the original position of the jumper, then pull it out and connect another pair of contacts with it, wait at least ten seconds. After that, set it back to its original position. If the system board has a reset button, press it. If the computer turns on, check the BIOS settings. In most cases, it is necessary to select the correct SATA controller operating mode, which, starting with Windows XP, is "AHCI" and not "IDE". After that, the indicated problem should disappear. One of possible causes If the BIOS settings are wrong, it may be a dead motherboard battery - this will be discussed in paragraph 3.1.
2.5. RAM. Faulty memory is signaled by most motherboards using sound or light (LED) signals (see paragraph 2.2). However, we recommend checking the functionality of the modules random access memory without waiting for the warning signal. The computer must have at least two modules installed - remove one and try to boot the computer with it. If the PC does not turn on with this module, try starting the system with another module installed. If the computer starts with only one memory module, it usually means that the other one is bad.
2.6. VIDEO PAYMENT. Among the components of a PC, the problem should first of all be looked for in the source of the image signal - graphic map. If your computer has an integrated video card, remove the discrete card and test the system with the integrated GPU. Otherwise, check if the PC works with another graphics card. If yes, then your discrete or integrated graphics card is faulty.
2.7. CPU. A faulty processor can also cause the computer to operate but not produce an image signal. Therefore, if possible, test the performance of the PC with another compatible processor before the next very difficult step.
2.8. MOTHERBOARD. With all other possible sources of problems now ruled out, the last "suspect" remains the motherboard. The problem here may be, for example, in the CMOS chip in which the BIOS is stored, or in the PCIe bus to which video cards are connected. Troubleshooting in most cases does not justify itself, therefore best solution will immediately replace the motherboard.
The task of the BIOS is to prepare the computer for booting. operating system. If problems occur during the operation of the BIOS, then, as a rule, error messages appear, with the help of which you can localize them.
3.1. BIOS SETTINGS. With computers released four or five years ago, situations often occur when they suddenly refuse to boot. The reason lies in the BIOS settings. In this case, the message “Please enter Setup to recover BIOS setting | CMOS Date/Time Not Set". You can enter the BIOS, as a rule, using the "F1" or "Del" button when you turn on the PC. After that, you need to restore all the basic settings - for example, the date, the sequence of boot devices, or such an important parameter as the operating mode of the SATA controller (AHCI). After restoring the settings, there should be no problems booting the PC. However, the reason that the settings went wrong is most likely the following: the motherboard has a round flat battery, which is an “emergency” power source for the CMOS chip so that the latter does not lose settings. If this battery is dead, it must be replaced, otherwise the BIOS settings will be lost every time the PC is turned off.
3.2. SEQUENCE OF BOOT DEVICES. If the BIOS reports that it cannot find bootable media, there could be several reasons for this. First, check the boot device sequence in the settings. In modern motherboards To do this, you need to perform two operations. In the boot options, you will find the item "Boot priority" ("Priority of boot devices"), which specifies components such as hard drives, removable media, or optical drives. HDD must have the highest download priority.
3.3. DISK MALFUNCTION. If the drive does not appear in the BIOS media selection menu, open the PC and check that the power cables and interface cables of the appropriate media are securely connected. If the problem persists, test the drive with a different cable, in an HDD case with USB interface or on another computer. If this does not help, then most likely the media has failed as a result of damage to the controller. In this case, most likely, only a specialist will be able to recover the data for quite a lot of money. If you regularly create system images and backups data, you only need to replace the disk and copy the data. Otherwise, you will have to completely reinstall the system.
3.4. BOOT SECTOR. If the boot device is displayed in the BIOS and you can view its contents when connected to another PC, then it is most likely corrupted boot sector. This happens quite often when a redistribution attempt fails. disk space or when uninstalling Linux as a second operating system. To resolve the error, boot from installation DVD or a rescue disk. During the boot process, select "Repair your computer" or "PC recovery options", then click on "System Restore", and then follow the instructions of the wizard. If this does not solve the problem, then try to restore manually. Boot the PC again as described above and in the system recovery settings open the window command line. Enter the following commands in it:
bootrec /fixmbr bootrec /fixboot
bcdedit ;/export C:\bcd_1 c: cd boot attrib bcd -s -h -r ren bcd bcd_2 bootrec /RebuildBcd
After that, Windows should boot up. If you are still having difficulty, follow the instructions below.
Your computer starts to boot, but just before the appearance user interface"hangs". With these symptoms, many hardware and BIOS problems can be ruled out.
(to be continued)
Good day, dear readers. As you understood from the title, we will talk about connecting the front panel and motherboard connectors to the case or vice versa.
This is an article that is a small addition to the once written material on assembling a computer under the same name “Assembling a computer with our own hands” or “What is what in a computer, part 2″.
We will talk about a small missed, but important element - connecting connectors (all kinds of buttons, lights, etc.) of the front panel.
Go.
On the front panel of the system unit, there are usually power buttons and a manual reset of the computer. They also need to be properly connected to. Connection cables are usually made in the form of pins (see above for what pins are).
They look something like this (clickable):
Power SW - power button cable; Power LED + - - power indicator (bulb) cables; HDD LED - loading indicator cable (the same light that usually blinks); RESET SW - reset button cable.
Proper connection of the front panel connection is also important, because without this the computer simply will not turn on.
Each motherboard has a so-called Front panel contact block or F-Panel for short. Usually it is located in the lower right corner of the board, but there are exceptions. This is how it looks like:
Connecting the connection of the front panel and its pins is carried out manually and for this there are definitely tips in the accompanying documents to the motherboard.
If there are documents, then it is not difficult to connect the pins. If not, there are hints on the motherboard itself around or next to the F-Panel. If you are lucky many times, then the motherboard comes with the following adapter:
In which you simply stick, as shown above, the connectors themselves, and then this adapter to the motherboard and everything turns out quickly and simply. But not everyone is so lucky, and you probably got here because you are trying to connect everything for an already former (and not new) motherboard.
In addition, on the front panel of the system unit there are sometimes USB interface connectors (usually a couple of them) and ports for connecting headphones / speakers and a microphone. It looks something like this:
Cable pins for connecting these external USB ports inside the system unit look like this:
They are connected to the pin blocks on the motherboard, which are called F-USB1 and F-USB2, respectively (they may not look exactly the same in color and location as in the screenshot below, but everything is the same in shape and number / location of pins):
The ports for connecting external audio inputs, - only the position / number of pins differs, so connecting the front panel in this regard is not a very difficult task.
It’s easy to connect them (they simply won’t fit into other pin blocks). But for them, there are also hints in the accompanying documents for the motherboard:
Actually, everything and nothing complicated in this.
Or take a magnifying glass and carefully study the connector mentioned above for connecting on the computer motherboard:
Usually it is at least somehow, but symbolically signed, since from the second or third time you can guess what is there and connect everything correctly. The wires are connected, as a rule, with an inscription on themselves:
Occasionally, the second row (far) looks the other way with inscriptions, but this is quite rare. One way or another, as I wrote above, not from the first, so from the second time - guess :)
If you can’t see anything (whether your eyesight is weak or the inscriptions are poorly spelled out), then open the motherboard manufacturer’s website and look for the “Support” section (or something like that), where you can usually download the instructions from the motherboard, where it is always described connection.
If you couldn’t find it on the manufacturer’s website, then you can find it on the Internet by querying “board name” + the word manual, with a minimum knowledge of English, you will definitely find a place to download, and there you can open, look and connect.
If you have any questions or additions, write in the comments or with the help. I would be happy to help and just listen to you.
PS : The images shown are for illustration purposes only. No ads.
PS2: The article was written by a person who lives on the net under the nickname (friend and assistant of the project). For which many thanks to him.
